Installing fireplace mantle

However, corbels can be attached to the stud work to create a very strong mounting structure as well. Determine Proper Height. Slide Over Bolts Method. The slide over bolts method is the most common method that we see used.

It provides good strength, a relatively easy installation, and it can be used even if your stonework is already in place. A couple of the photos are through the generous courtesy of the Run to Radiance Blog. Anchored in Masonry Method. Next, tap in a lead expansion anchor before placing in a bolt or rod. Follow steps above. Be sure that your masonry is strong enough and that your mantel does not have so much depth that it creates a very strong lever against the masonry.

Position the Cleats Photo by Kolin Smith With the mantel face-down on the floor, measure the inside width of the shelf to determine the length of the horizontal cleat.

Cut a 2x4 to this measurement and dry-fit it in place inside the shelf. On some mantels, the cleats may have to be installed in pieces to accommodate blocking. With the top cleat positioned, measure for the length and the depth of the vertical leg cleats. Cut 2x4 cleats double up for a thicker mantel and dry-fit them inside the legs. Bore the Pilot Holes Photo by Kolin Smith Measure the thickness of the mantel edges that will sit flush against the wall on the legs and shelf.

Mark the distance on the wall at several points inside the pencil scribe of the mantel's outline. Use the 3-foot level to connect the dots and mark where to hang the cleats. Hold the top cleat against the wall. Attach the Cleats Photo by Kolin Smith If using a hammer drill, be sure to switch from hammer-drill mode to drill-only mode for this step. Attach the side cleats in the same manner. Drive the screws through the pilot holes you previously drilled in Step 4. Install the Mantel Photo by Kolin Smith Fit the mantel over the cleats, aligning it with the outline marks on the wall.

Press all edges flush against the wall before fastening. If the cleats are properly positioned, the mantel should fit over them like a sleeve. Turn off the drill's hammer action. Use a driver bit to drive 2-inch finish screws every 16 inches along the back of the shelf above the center of the top cleat.

With the right mantel, you can turn your fireplace into a showpiece that adds warmth and style to the room. Read on to find out how. Installing your own mantel can save you money, enhance your home's style and give you bragging rights over your friends. You can build one from scratch or buy a prefabricated kit from any number of fireplace and home improvement stores. If money is a concern, buying a prefab mantel is probably your best bet.

Depending on whether you're building something from scratch or are installing a prefab mantel, your tools may vary. We've listed some basics here, but don't forget to check with your supplier and read the directions on the kit to make sure you have everything you need before getting started. In our next section we'll cover the placing the mantel in the wall itself, before moving on the stone walls. Want a white Italian marble mantel? No problem. Cherry wood?

Of course. Alabaster granite? Right this way. In making your decision, think about the mood you want to create and what you want the mantel to say about your home.

Depending on whether you're adding a ledge above your fireplace or installing an elaborately carved wood kit, your installation steps will vary. Prefabricated mantel kits typically come in three or four pieces that you will need to attach to each other, then to the wall. Start by removing the fireplace doors and laying down a drop cloth to catch wayward screws, nails, wood shavings and debris. Hold the new mantel against the place in the wall where you want to install it and draw a line across the top with a pencil to mark the height.

Then find the studs and mark their location on the line. From here, follow the directions that came with the kit. If you're customizing the job, don't forget to install a backboard with wood glue and a drill or a hammer to help secure the mantel against the wall. Ask someone to hold it to make sure it's flush against the wall. Mark the territory. Using a piece of chalk or a pencil, make an outline around the edges of the mantel, both along the top and the sides of the fireplace.

Once the marking is complete, pull the mantel away from the fireplace and position it face down on a smooth surface. Mark the location of the mounting board. Make a second set of lines, which will serve as the outer edge of the mounting boards, also called cleats. One way to measure the cleat is to fit it into the back of the mantel like it will be on the wall. Use a measuring tape to measure the length from the top edge of the mantel to the bottom edge of the cleat.

Place the measuring tape along the line drawn in step 2, and then use the measurement and draw a new line below the first. For example, if the length from the top of the mantel to the bottom of the cleat is 3", measure 3" down from the line on the wall and draw a second line.

Another method to measure the cleat is to measure the size of the inside of the mantel from the top of the shelf to the edge just above where you will place your cleat. Then, measure the length of the side of the cleat you will affix to the wall.

Add those totals together. Draw a line under the line on the wall using your measurement. Prepare the mounting boards. The mounting boards will be affixed to the actual wall surrounding the hearth at strategic points, creating a framework for the mantel. A minimum of 3 mounting boards is required, 1 for the top and one for each side, although additional cleats can be used.

Measure the size of the mounting boards against the new markings on the wall, and use the saw to cut the cleats to size. The top cleat should be one foot shorter than the shelf. Dry-fit the mounting boards in the mantel. The top cleat should be fitted first, then the two legs.

They should fit snugly together, but don't have to be fitted perfectly. Make any adjustments to the length of the cleats if you need to. Locate and mark the wall studs. If you are attaching the mantel to dry wall, you will need to attach the cleats to three studs behind the mantel. When you have located the studs, make a mark in the middle of the stud along the cleat line. Wall studs are meant to support and hold up dry wall on interior walls.

The easiest way to find a wall stud is to use a stud finder, which can be purchased from a local home improvement store. Studs are evenly spaced behind walls. In most houses, studs are spaced 16" apart. Studs are usually 1. Try finding an electrical outlet on the wall. One side of the electrical outlet will be nailed to the stud. To locate which side, you can do the knock test.

Using the heel of your hand, gently knock the wall on each side of the outlet. The side without the stud will sound hollow, while the side with the stud won't. This will be the center of the stud.

Using a tape measure, you can mark the studs along the wall every 16". Another way to locate the studs is to look at the baseboards. Baseboards are nailed to studs, so if you find holes or indentations that have been painted over or caulked over, you can measure " inches from that point to locate additional studs.

Affix the mounting boards to the wall. Hold the cleat against the wall and align the bottom with the second set of drawn lines. The bottom edge of each cleat should line up along the top of the second line. Use the level to make sure the cleats are completely horizontal from left to right across the top and perfectly vertical from top to bottom on the sides.